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Fabric guide

Know what you wear

Whatever you do, work at it with all your heart. · Colossians 3:23

The short answer

Is a 240 gsm t-shirt good quality?

Yes. At 240 g/m² a tee is heavyweight, where most basic tees are 140 to 180 g/m² and around 200 is where heavyweight starts. Ours are 240 to 260 g/m², 100% combed cotton and ZeroShrink, and the hoodie and sweatpants are 400 g/m² brushed fleece.

Weight chart

T-shirt weight chart

What each weight feels like, when to wear it, and where ours sit. oz/yd² is g/m² divided by 33.906.

Fabric weight in g/m² (gsm) and oz/yd², with feel, season and typical use. Our weights are marked.
g/m² (gsm)oz/yd²FeelSeasonTypical use
140 4.1 Light and thin. Drapes close to the body. Summer Basic multipacks, promo and event tees
160 4.7 Light and soft. Clings a little. Summer Everyday basics
180 5.3 Mid-weight. The typical tee. Year-round Typical fashion and retail tee
200 5.9 Mid to heavy. More body. Year-round Where heavyweight starts
220 6.5 Heavy. Holds its shape. Year-round Heavyweight basics
240 7.1 Heavy. Hangs straight, does not cling. Year-round Heavyweight and boxy teesOurs Black & White tees
260 7.7 Heavy and a touch denser. Year-round Heavyweight and boxy teesOurs Vintage & Sunfaded tees
300 8.8 Super heavyweight. Stiffer and warmer. Spring, autumn, winter Structured boxy tees
400 11.8 Sweatshirt weight. Warm. Autumn and winter Hoodies and sweatpantsOurs Hoodie and sweatpants, brushed fleece

There is no official cut-off between light, mid and heavy. These bands are how the trade commonly describes tee weight. Feel also depends on the yarn, the knit and the finish.

Free to use with credit and a link to thwrd.com.

What g/m² means

g/m², or gsm, is the weight in grams of one square metre of the fabric. Fabric weight is measured as mass per unit area, with test methods such as ASTM D3776. In the US you also see ounces per square yard: 1 oz/yd² is 33.906 g/m² (NIST), so 240 g/m² is about 7.1 oz. A higher number means more cotton in the same area, so the fabric is denser and heavier.

Shrinkage and washing

Every piece we make is ZeroShrink: the fabric is washed and tumble-dried before it is cut, so the shrinking happens at the factory, not in your wash. Wash the tees cold and inside out, and hang them dry. Skip the tumble dryer for the tees to protect the print. The hoodie and sweatpants can tumble dry low, max 30 °C / 90 °F.

Summer and winter

A 240 g/m² tee is warmer than a thin one. It also stands off the body instead of sticking to it when you sweat, and the boxy cut adds air. On the hottest days, reach for the tee. The 400 g/m² hoodie and sweatpants, brushed fleece and soft inside, are for the cold months.

Our exact weights

Black & White tees: 240 g/m². Vintage & Sunfaded tees: 240 or 260 g/m² (the product page says which). The hoodie and the sweatpants: 400 g/m² brushed fleece. Each product page shows the exact weight.

Measurements for each piece, laid flat, in cm or inches, are in the range below. For which size to take, read the fit guide.

In 3D

Turn it over

The range

By weight

Four pieces, one cotton. Different weight, weave and dye.

Black & White

Black & White tee

240g/m²

Grams per square metre. Higher is denser and heavier.

Fabric
Reactive-dyed, single jersey knit
Fit
Crew neck, drop shoulders, oversized fitTrue to size. Between two sizes: slim build, size down. Broad build, size up.Our male models are 183 to 196 cm and wear L or XL. Our female models are 163 to 177 cm and wear S or M. Size guide Still unsure? Ask.
Size L
  • Chest63 cm
  • Length79 cm
  • Shoulder60.5 cm
  • Sleeve21.5 cm
Laid flat.
Feel
The lightest weight in the range.
Care
Inside out, cold water, gentle cycle, mild detergent. Hang dry.
Construction
  • Binding taped neck and shoulders
  • Double-stitched ribbed collar
  • Coverstitch cuffs and hem
Vintage & Sunfaded

Tie-dyed tee

260g/m²

Grams per square metre. Higher is denser and heavier.

Fabric
Tie-dyed, single jersey knit, 240 or 260 g/m² (the product page says which).
Fit
Crew neck, drop shoulders, boxy loose fitTrue to size. Between two sizes: slim build, size down. Broad build, size up.Our male models are 183 to 196 cm and wear L or XL. Our female models are 163 to 177 cm and wear S or M. Size guide Still unsure? Ask.
Size L
  • Chest60 cm
  • Length74 cm
  • Shoulder58 cm
  • Sleeve24 cm
Laid flat.
Feel
Like the 240, and a touch denser.
Care
As the tees, plus: slight bleeding may occur in the first wash. Wash like colours together.
Construction
  • Binding taped neck and shoulders
  • Double-stitched ribbed collar
  • Coverstitch cuffs and hem
Sweats

Hoodie

400g/m²

Grams per square metre. Higher is denser and heavier.

Fabric
Brushed fleece
Fit
Drop shoulders, oversized fitTrue to size. Between two sizes: slim build, size down. Broad build, size up. Size guide Still unsure? Ask.
Size L
  • Chest68 cm
  • Length74 cm
  • Shoulder64 cm
  • Sleeve60 cm
Laid flat.
Feel
Soft inside and warm.
Care
Reverse side, neutral detergent. Iron, steam or tumble dry low, max 30 °C / 90 °F.
Construction
  • Kangaroo pocket, snug collar
  • Double flatlock seamed hood
  • Double-stitched ribbed cuffs and hem
  • Washed and easy to fade
Sweats

Sweatpants

400g/m²

Grams per square metre. Higher is denser and heavier.

Fabric
Brushed fleece
Size L
  • Waist77 cm
  • Outseam110 cm
  • Hip124 cm
  • Leg opening27 cm
Laid flat.
Feel
Soft inside and warm.
Care
Reverse side, neutral detergent. Iron, steam or tumble dry low, max 30 °C / 90 °F.
Construction
  • Drawstring with aglets
  • Elastic waist and cuffs
  • Side seam pockets, rear patch pocket
  • 3-tiered topstitched waistband
  • Oversized, relaxed leg with elastic cuffs, true to size
  • Washed and easy to fade

What they all share

  • 100% combed cottonTees, hoodie and sweatpants alike.
  • ZeroShrinkEvery piece, tees, hoodie and sweatpants.
  • Side-seamedTees and hoodie, cut and sewn with side seams.
  • Made to orderPrinted once, for you. Ready in 2 to 3 working days.
Questions

About the fabric

More questions before you buy? See the FAQ.

Weight and quality

Is a 240 gsm t-shirt good quality?

Weight alone does not make a good tee, but 240 g/m² is a heavy, dense fabric that holds its shape. Most basic tees are 140 to 180 g/m². Check the cotton too: ours is 100% combed cotton, and combing removes the short fibres before the yarn is spun (Cotton Incorporated). It is also ZeroShrink cotton.

Is 240 gsm heavyweight?

Yes. There is no official cut-off, but around 200 g/m² is where a tee is commonly called heavyweight, and 300 and up is often called super heavyweight. At 240 g/m², about 7.1 oz/yd², our tees hang straight instead of clinging.

What is the difference between 180 gsm and 240 gsm?

A 240 g/m² fabric has a third more cotton in every square metre than a 180 (240 ÷ 180 = 1.33). 180 is a typical mid-weight fashion tee: lighter and closer to the body. 240 feels thicker in the hand and holds a boxy shape. See the weight chart.

What is the difference between 240 gsm and 300 gsm?

300 g/m² is a quarter heavier again (300 ÷ 240 = 1.25). Tees at 300 and up are often called super heavyweight: stiffer, warmer and more structured. 240 is heavy but still easy to wear in warm weather. Our tees are 240 and 260 g/m².

Is 240 gsm too hot for summer?

It is warmer than a thin tee, yes. But a heavyweight tee stands off the body instead of sticking to it when you sweat, and the boxy cut adds air. On the hottest days, the tee is the piece to reach for, not the 400 g/m² sweats.

How do I convert gsm to oz?

Divide g/m² by 33.906 to get ounces per square yard, because 1 oz/yd² is 33.906 g/m² (NIST). So 240 g/m² is about 7.1 oz, 260 is about 7.7 oz and 400 is about 11.8 oz.

How thick is a 240 gsm t-shirt?

gsm measures weight per square metre, not thickness in millimetres, and we do not publish a thickness figure. What you notice is density: 240 g/m² has a third more cotton than a 180 tee, so it feels thicker in the hand and hangs instead of clinging.

Are all your tees the same weight?

No. The Black & White tees are 240 g/m². The Vintage & Sunfaded tees are 240 or 260 g/m² (the product page says which). Each product page shows the exact weight under Details and Care.

What does g/m² mean?

Grams per square metre: how much the fabric weighs. A higher number is denser and heavier. The tees are 240 and 260 g/m². The hoodie and sweatpants are 400 g/m² brushed fleece.

Which size should I get?

Every piece is cut roomy and true to size. Between two sizes: slim build, size down. Broad build, size up. The size guide on each product page has every measurement, laid flat. More in the fit guide.

Fabric and care

Does a 240 gsm tee shrink?

Not after it reaches you. Every piece is ZeroShrink: the fabric is washed and tumble-dried before it is cut, so the shrinking happens at the factory, not in your wash. Wash cold and hang it dry, and it holds its size. Wash the tees inside out. Hanging them dry protects the print too.

What does ZeroShrink mean?

ZeroShrink fabric is washed and tumble-dried before it is cut. The shrinking happens before your piece is made, so it holds its size in a normal home wash.

How do I wash a heavyweight tee to keep its shape?

Inside out, cold water, gentle cycle, mild detergent. Hang it dry, out of direct sun, and keep the iron off the print. Skip the tumble dryer to protect the print.

Can I tumble dry the hoodie and sweatpants?

Yes, on low, max 30 °C / 90 °F, reverse side out with a neutral detergent. Hang the tees dry instead.

More on washing so the print survives, in the FAQ.

Why do some t-shirts twist after washing?

It is called torque, skew or spirality. Cotton single jersey, a common t-shirt knit, tends to skew when the fabric relaxes, and drying without tension makes it worse (Cotton Incorporated). How much depends on the yarn twist, the knitting machine and the finishing.

Are the hoodie and sweatpants 100% cotton?

Yes. The hoodie and the sweatpants are 100% combed cotton, 400 g/m² brushed fleece, ZeroShrink. Both are cut oversized. The sweatpants have a relaxed leg with elastic cuffs and are true to size.

Will the colour fade?

The Black & White tees are reactive-dyed. The hoodie and sweatpants are washed and easy to fade, so the colour softens as you wear them. That is the look.

Why can the tie-dyed tee bleed?

The dye can bleed a little in the first wash. Wash it inside out, in cold water, with like colours.

Sources

Weights, fabric and care for our own pieces come from our product pages.

Written by Thomas Finn, founder, with Krisztina Maria, co-founder · Last reviewed

Colossians 3:14

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